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DIARY OF A VOYAGE FROM LONDON TO AUSTRALIA
per SS ARAYABA of Orient Line - 31st March-12th May 1899
[Original Source: posted to Rootsweb [1]. Additional information about the writer and her family is needed. ]
This is a transcription of a hand-written diary owned by Mrs. Loma Morrison of Ruawai. It is being put on to a word processor by John Lewis, Computer Studies teacher at Ruawai College. The numbers represent separate double-pages from the diary (about 60 of them). Any words I am unable to decipher are shown as xxx. Doubtful words followed by ? Punctuation added to help the sense. Spelling mistakes where legible, left as found.
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Monti Vidio is a very large town with around 800 000 Spanish and Portuguese inhabitants. It is 5 days sail from Buenos Ayres across the River Plate - a splendid river. The town is quite oriental in style and architecture. There are some very elaborate marble buildings which are very fancy to the English eye. Not one could speak the English tongue, the churches, cathedrals and market places were mostly built of marble - white, blue? and grey. The houses have a large court in the centre, with glass roof, balconies running all round ? 4 and 6 tiers. The sitting and bedrooms lead off from these verandahs. The front of the building which overlooks the street have mostly marble balconies filled with flowers. There sit the ladies dressed most elaborately in quite an oriental style. In the street they wear no bonnet or hat, but the hair is braided or coiled on the top of the head - the streets
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are narrow and paved with wood. The trams are drawn by 3 mules abreast - very few horses to be seen except in a gentleman's carriage. Law is very lax indeed and the people looked very hard and cruel.
Aug 1898
Cape Vincent - One of the Canary Islands is situated close to the line as we only passed it 1 day before. The heat was very trying. Did not go on shore. The natives came on board with shells and xxx and fruit to sell. They are an untidy race living here Portuguese and Spanish, Negroes and etc. A nasty dirty lot of people and such dreadful xxx. The country looked very bare such huge rocks
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on either side of the harbour. The town was smallish and built after the Danish style. Some passengers went ashore and said they were drugged and all their money taken. Bananas and plaintains were very fine indeed. Oranges 40 l/s but were not very sweet. Not anything like as nice as the Monti Video oranges. Sep 1st '98
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Captain A McNalt? SS Arayaba?
Diary of my trip home from England Good Friday March 31/99 by SS Arayaba Orient Line via Suez? and Australia. Left Kenilworth, my dear old home on Wed Mar 29. Edward drove us to Warwick after tea with dear father and mother for the last time. It was a silent drive, reached Warwick about 6.30. Finished a little packing, then bid good bye to so many friends, I don't want to hear the word again - Left Warwick for London Thursday morning express - reached Euston Station
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12 noon Mr Gulliver? met us and we drove to St Pancras station to leave our luggage then we took bus to to see the Marble Arch and Hyde Park. Walked through the park to see the Serpentine a broad sheet of Ornamental waters and Rotten Row. As it was in the season, a continuous stream of carriages and horse riders were passing. Both chairs and seats are scattered all about the park, and the snowdrops, hyacinths and crocuses were lovely. I am sure one could never dream when walking in H Park and St James Close that you were in the heart of the greatest and most wonderful city in the world. Took bus again to London Bridge to see Tower Bridge which opens to let the large masted vessels pass through - saw the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Just too late to see the interior but the carved stone doorway is magnificent. All around the abbey were flocks of pigeons fed by the passers by. Walked through Whitehall, and saw all the Government buildings and guards. On bus again through the Strand, Piccadilly, Oxford and Regent Streets and was often blocked and could
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not get on, a policeman stands in the middle of the street and no bus or car can pass unless he holds up his hands. 1st saw St James Palace. Rode through Threadneedle St, Fleet St, saw also the Monument and fountains and the places of interest. Had tea and afterwards rode in cab to King Edwards Road to spend the night with Mrs. Gulliver. Left Mrs. Gulliver in a cab with my sister and Edward at 8.15 Drove to St Pancras station a distance of 10? miles on Good Friday morning. It was wet and miserable and London did not look nearly as nice as the previous day. Left for Tilbury warfe, 9.40 by special train. Tilbury must be quite 40 miles from London. As we went through green fields and etc oh what a bustle and excitement it was. I really don't think I could have managed it alone. The children even inspected by the Customs Officer and ship's Dr before going on board the tender to take us to the SS Arizaba? She looked a beautiful vessel lying out in the stream. The friends of passengers were
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allowed on board for an hour. Sally and Ned accompanied me. There are a great number of passengers, 400 in all, and 150 crew and officers. The Commander is quite young to have the command of such a large vessel. She is fitted up with all the latest improvements and electric lights everywhere, 450 feet her length. The bill of fare is good. A heavy xxx came on when in the English Channel. The engines were stopped when we reached Plymouth. This Saturday we heard of the loss of the SS Stella, a channel steamer running between Southampton and Jersey and the C Is {Channel Islands} which sank on a rock the previous day just about the part that we had stopped and where? a xxx over 100 passengers were drowned as she filled and went down in 15 minutes through the top? Left Plymouth at 3pm. 30 passengers came on board.
Sunday Easter Day
In the Bay of Biscay, a beautiful morning and the Bay quite calm. Only a swell, some? few of the passengers were seasick, but neither myself or boys? feel
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inclined for Mal de Mer. There was no service in the morning as the passengers were not well. Does not seem one bit like Sunday. Some are reading, sleeping, playing cards and I saw some even dancing. I have been told there are 2 clergy on board but I have not seen them.
Monday 3rd - Have passed safely through the Bay and now in the Atlantic, it is much rougher here and quite cold. Obliged to wear our wraps all day, but a lovely starlight night. Can see the phospherous [sic] in the rippling waves.
Tuesday 4th - Have passed Portugal and Cape Vincent. A wild rocky coast - no vegetation to be seen in the huge rocks. Caves can be seen with the water running through. Passed a monastery and lighthouse on the point - it has been a lovely summer day with sea and sky perfect. We pass many vessels, both steam and sail and a lot of fishing smacks and small boats of one sail which turn? to? dance? of the rippling waves.
Wed 5th - reached Gibraltar at 5 am Everyone was
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up and on deck as early as possible. The sun was shining and Gibraltar looked very pretty indeed. It is a busy shipping port. 8 large warships stand on either side of the harbour to protect the Mediterranean Sea. Vessels of all nationalities were in port. The decks were swarming with Italians and Spanish selling prints? etc tobacco and cigars, which are free of duty here. A great supply was taken on board. Gibraltar rises to a very high peak. The forts are built on its summit. 1899 guns are embedded in its sides. Some can be seen from the ship. Some went ashore but had a very short time there. A soldier, his wife and 2 children came on board, bound for Khartoum to join General Kitchener's army. I am told it is a lively place to live in.
Thursday [6th April 1899]
Can see the snow capped mountains along the coast and inland, they looking very beautiful in the sunshine. The water and sky in the Mediterranean are very blue and it is a beautiful calm -
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passed Trafalgar Bay the scene of the great naval victory by Nelson and his officers.
Friday 7th [April 1899]
Reached Marseilles at 1 pm, and set sail again at 4. Some of the passengers went ashore but returned very disappointed. The streets were narrow and dirty and all speak the French language. None are allowed on the boats except the Customs Officer who searches the ship, I mean crew for contraband goods. But the boatmen sell their wares from a small boat and pass it on a long stick to the vessel, scent and pipes and etc are sold and they know how to charge.
Marcellias [sic] proper is a long distance from the shipping docks. It looks very pretty from the sea. Its houses all dotted up the mountain slopes, range upon range in the background. The cathedral is on a high summit of a white chalky rock and its buildings extend for a long distance along the coast. As we leave the harbour, high and dangerous rocks are on the left of us for some
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distance, here the rain commences to fall and a storm is brewing. It is very cold also as a breeze is blowing. Saturday, Gulf of Lyons such a rough night we have had. We have been tossed about all the time. I could not get any sleep but the sea is magnificent.
Sunday 9th [April 1899]
It was 6 o'clock this morning when I awoke. The vessel was just stopping at Naples. I was anxious to see if the reports I had heard of Naples were correct - someone has said, "See Naples and die." I could not endure the sentiment. The town did not look very beautiful, but rain was pouring in torrents for a few minutes. Almost immediately although it was so early, the street was filled with Neapolitans of all descriptions selling their merchandise. I shall never forget the scene and hubub. They pester you to death to buy and asking a most outrageous price and when you'd not give they say, "How much you give, lady? How much you give?", coming
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down in price from an article 2/6 ? to 6d. After an early breakfast, 11 of us, having selected our guide, went ashore in a steam tender, intending to visit Naples and Pompeii. It was not very pleasant at 1st on A/C of the rain showers but our guide soon had us completely in hand and comfortably settled in two carriages, and away we rattled through the dirty stone-paved streets, dirty indeed they were, and speaking generally the Neapolitans looked no better. We were pestered by flower sellers who ran by the side of the carriages for some distance. Our first stoppage was the Arcade. This is a magnificent piece of building, 4 years old and cost this Corporation the sum of 1,000,000 [pounds sterling] and is all lit up by electricity Its floors are marble inlaid with mosaic. From the Arcade we drove to the Royal Church. This church is built in imitation of the Pantheon of Rome with a crystal cupola and the floor corresponds with the ceiling in the mosaic arrangement
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of the tiles. It is built throughout of pure white marble from the ?arran? quarries. A pleasing relief is offered by insertions of beautifully coloured plates of Sicilian marble. Here is the Royal box and the painting and gilt and bronze is magnificent. From the Royals Church we drove to the Jesu church. This is a most magnificent church built in the form of a cross. It is 400 years old. The altar is composed of pure white marble from Jerusalem, far exceeding anything my mind could conceive in splendour and magnificence. It is rectangular in shape about 40 feet high and the same in width and 13.5 feet long. It is divided into 3 panels, each panel forming a perfect square. Inlaid is a smaller square of Sicilian marble of the top of which is a cross of gilt-bronze studded with costly gems, the chief of which are cornelians and lapis lazuli. On the altar are golden candlesticks
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each having 7 arms emblematic of the 7 apostles. There are 2 splendid organs each facing the other and the pulpit a fine piece of architecture. The roof of the dome is a mass of paintings by Raphael and are of incalculable value, some 500 years old a very old painting I've also visited in that xxx a reliquary, busts of departed Saints were arranged in rows on pedestals. Underneath each pedestal was a glass fronted box containing bones and other relics. In the naves are confessional boxes with a priest in each. High Mass was being celebrated at the time I saw one priest counting his beads. There were but few worshippers and the priest kept moving from one altar to another all the time. Different altars are all around the church. This church cost [pounds sign 4,000,000 millions. As we left the church, we were accosted by women begging for alms. We drove through the streets to a sister?
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chs? "St Chimara?". It is 500 years old. As we entered, we whispered to each other that each one was grander than the last. The roof was different panels of gilt/bronze, with lovely paintings by Giotto, columns of marble and floor mosaic, much like the others, most dazzling to the eye. Here were the tombs of a noted king and queen, I forget the name. We were sorry our time was so limited as one could spend days in examining the paintings alone and then come away dissatisfied. We entered our carriage which was waiting at the door. Through the busy streets, although it was Sunday, every shop was open and business seemed to be transacted the same as any other day. Splendid shops and squares we passed filled with beautiful goods and merchandise, buildings of 7 and 8 stories in height, with balconies filled with flowers and shrubs. We stopped at the Royal Museum. Corridors upon corridors filled with beautiful marble sculptures and bronze statuary.
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too numerous for me to mention or remember even. We saw the original of that world famed work? of Michael Angelo. The Farnese? Bull? it was brought from Rhodes to Rome before the time of Pliny. It was sculpted from a single block of marble. The 1st artists were Apollonius and Tauriscius? 3 century BC and Michal Angelo carried out the principal restorations. There were many beautiful paintings and mosaic works, fresco's from Pompeii and Herculaneum and its bronzes are very fine indeed. Some marble steps lead up to the different chambers. I'll never want to visit another museum for nothing can compare with this one. The King's palace is another magnificent place but we were all getting bewildered by the splendour of everything. Here we ascended a staircase of pure white marble (Carthage?), then we went to the School of Art, a school composed of sections divided into the
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various types, such as the Roman School, the Venetian School, Genovese School and etc The different painters' conceptions of the Madonna seemed to vary considerably, although each picture was in itself a masterpiece. In one of the lobbies was a statue of Hercules near which was a pedestal of a statue of Caesar bearing a complete list of the names of his Generals, some thousands in number all perfectly chiselled out of the marble. As we were all feeling as if the inner man needed to be attended after, we drove to the Hotel Londres? and had an English luncheon of fish, beef steak, green peas, potatoes and fruit. After this we entered our carriages which were thrown open. We drove to Pompeii, a distance of 15 miles round the Bay and round the foot of Vesuvius. Thick columns of smoke kept ascending from the mountains. I will not easily forget our ride through dirty streets crowded with people. All refuse was
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thrown into the streets. Some of the streets so narrow one could almost shake hands with the opposite neighbour. Clothes were hanging to dry from the balconies, and across the streets everyone sitting at their doors and windows. A perfect Babal? We had a unique view of the Bay of Naples on our right and Mt Vesuvius on our left. A range of lemon groves on either side and vine plantations with figs and capsicums were growing by the roadside in great abundance. After rattling through streets paved with larva cakes? The larva streets for 2 hrs, we reached Pompeii. Our guide which paid all our expenses through the day got us tickets costing 2/- each admittance to the wonderful excavated city which has been buried over 1800 years. It was buried about the year 78 AD. We climbed a steep incline, on either side some beautiful gardens filled with lovely flowers and an avenue of Oleander trees which were not in bloom. We came
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to the entrance gate. It is called "Portra della Marina" because all goods brought to the town from the sea, entered at this gate. Close underneath this archway we entered into the Museum on the right. This is of ancient origin although renovated and is now used for the relics which have been found in the buried city. It contains many articles of great interest and priceless value, among which are doors with their original locks and bolts, builder's tools, chests, purses. The wheels of chariot, pieces of burnt cloth, bread all charred black?, but in perfect shape and form, scales for weighing purposes, drinking vessels and cups, fresco's and paintings. In the 2nd room we saw a painting of Narcissus admiring himself in the fountain. Caves were on either side containing shells, bottles, cups and etc, small xxx money, bones? plaster tiles and other objects all in terra cotta several cases were arranged down the centre of the room containing petrified remains of human beings. Most pathetic
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were their attitudes. Some had thrown themselves down upon their faces others lying on their backs and in various pitiable attitudes one could picture the cry of dismay and dispare as the moulten larva poured from the heights of Vesuvius and covered the city and its inmates in such a tragic death. They are living monuments of stone, the coils of the women's hair are distinctly to be seen, also the rings on their fingers are faithfully portrayed, folds of the drapery of one woman's xxx had fallen on her face was most perfect she had fallen upon her face with her arm across her eyes as if to shut out the dreadful sight. Where the larva was chipped off, the bone underneath was distinctly visible one statue of a poor dog on its back, howling at its sad end - statues of Venus and a Satyr are also to be see in this room We xxx passed on the Basilica or Court of Justice. This place contains the
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entrances and contains cells for prisoners. At the bottom was the tribune/magistrate. It is a lofty capacious edifice. The now ruined columns of marble convey some idea of the immense grandeur of buildings of byegone days. We then visited the temple of Apollo and Venus and Jupiter, in the latter of which was a statue of great Majnates? We next visited the Forum, a place destined for games and markets, public meetings and sacred solemnities. The Forum was just being erected at the time of the eruption and earthquake. The temple of Mercury is near the Forum in which is a beautiful altar of white marble with a carved front representing the sacrifice of a bull. We then passed into an open court in the centre of which was an altar surrounded by 12 pedestals on one side were 12 compartments for the 12 priests and and each priest offered sacrifice upon one of the pedestals or altars, on the walls of the priests' cubicles -
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are paintings of fishes, birds and winged figures. We next went up a street called Abundance Street, so called upon the figure of Abundance sculptured from a block of stone or marble. Upon the left, this street contained the shops of the merchants and bread and wine sellers. A very interesting sight was the public baths. It has recesses for clothes, a large swimming bath, a tepid bath and cold bath, all of white marble with mosaic floors. The walls are hollow. The decorations in stucco are beautifully painted in yellow and red. Every large house had its own white marble bath with perfumed baron? from scented waters and enclosed gardens, stables for horses; all its floors were mosaic design except the servants quarters. Small bedrooms opened off the centre hall. Next we went to see the Triangular Forum? The Temple of Hercules where the statue of Hercules was found which we had seen in the museum at Naples. We next saw the Gladiators barracks,
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along side of which was the Comic Theatre and Tragic Theatre and the Arena, with its steps, tier above tier, moss and maiden hair ferns are growing all about. In Fortune Street we saw some shops which our guide told us were for hot drinks. A hole for the fire is seen underneath, and a hollow over the fire for the terra cotta jar in which the water was boiled. We also saw a baker's shop with its stone mills for grinding the corn and the oven for the bread in a most wonderful state of preservation. Last of all the guide took us to the Vetts? House which was only excavated 6 months back. In it was a most spacious dining hall with walls were covered with beautiful paintings and frescoes illustrating the daily toil and pursuits and pleasures of the people of that day. Their colours were perfect in red, yellow and blue and etc - I noticed among them a brarden? pattern of various subjects, children at play with their dogs and goats, children driving goats in small chariots and other
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subjects - its windows looked upon a beautiful garden of flowers with marble tables, fountains and statues of Cupids and etc. There were also 2 slender pedestals of white marble, each supporting the head of a satyr at its entrance which are all most perfectly sculptured figures in bronze and marble with a water tube from which perfumed water poured into a marble basin. A large chest, studded with gold or brass nails was put under a glass cover. A long covered veranda ran around 2 sides of the garden, which from its paintings and frescoes on the walls I should call a picture gallery. We could spend a whole day here but had to be hurried off, having a 15 mile drive back to Naples. The streets were narrow and large stones were placed in the centre at equal distances to enable foot passengers to pass over to the other side when the water filled the streets. There was an abundance of street fountains and drinking places
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placed along each street. It seemed so strange to be walking in this city of byegone ages. Vesuvius loomed just above with its black? smoke. One felt rather nervous for fear a similar catastrophe should again occur. We were told the mountain had been very active of late. A heavy shower of rain hurried us to our carriages and we were soon rattling through the busy streets back to the city. Droves of goats passed us on the way, driven by the Neapolitan boys. The harness of the horses were very ornamental and peculiar. Opposite to the mountain was another large one on which a monastery was built. Its sloping sides were covered with shrubs and verdure and it looked very beautiful and pretty from the road. Across the harbour were mountains covered with snow, range upon range. Here is the famous "blue grotto". Vesuvius was covered with snow as we returned home which had fallen while we were in Pompeii. We drove back to the Hotel for tea, and then
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through the principal streets lighted from the centre by electric globes. Its tramway runs on one side along the pavement. Oh how glad we were to get on the tender for our vessel. We were all tired out.It was dark and the harbour and shore looked beautiful with its numerous lights, and Vesuvius looks most grand and appalling. In the darkness could be discerned the moulten larva of fire running down its sides and fringing its crater like a mass of fireworks. We were not sorry to retire to our state rooms, both eye and body tired with all we had seen through the day. The vessel did not leave until after midnight as it takes the Continental Mails.
Monday April 10th [1899]
Trombola [Stromboli?] another burning mountain situated in the middle of the sea some 20 miles from land was visible this morning. A fishing hamlet lay
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at its foot. Later on we came into the Straits of Messina, Sicily on the right and Italy on the left. The straits are very narrow and its current most dangerous at certain seasons. We steamed very slowly and the boat rolled very much indeed. On the coast of Sicily were many large cities and Mount Etna. xxx an extinct volcano was visible towering above the other mountains. Italy looked very beautiful on our left. We could see the trains running along the front of the mountains. In the background were the snowy tips of others glistening in the sunlight. Its verdant banks and slopes were covered with cultivations and its houses looked to be built after the same style as the Neapolitans. It did not take long to get through the Straits and we were pleased to get into mid ocean again.
Tuesday 11th [April 1899]
Nothing but water to be seen as far
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as the eye can reach. Both sea and sky are a splendid blue. It is also much warmer. The decks are covered with awnings to keep off the sun. All of the passengers who were sick yesterday seem better today.
Wednesday 12th [April 1899]
Same aspect as yesterday if anything, both sea and sky more blue than ever. Not a ripple is to be seen in the water. As far as the eye can reach, it looks like a sea of glass, weather about the same as yesterday. We hope to reach Port Said tomorrow morning and it will be hotter afterwards.
Thursday 13th [April 1899]
We reached Port Said about 9.30 this morning. Here we take on coal 1200 tons (the Arizaba uses 96 tons per day) This is one of the largest coaling stations along the route. Oh what a busy scene presented itself. I cannot describe it. We anchored inside the breakwater, very near to the pier. The wharf was crowded with a mixed mass of human beings of all nationalities, Arabs, Greeks, Egyptians, Hindoo, Europeans and etc, such a dirty, motley crew in Oriental dress. Instantly the decks were crowded with the black? men beginning to coal. Immediately, everybody that could, went
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on shore into the town. It is an amusing sight to see them coal. Blacks? run from the boat to the vessel and one follows another as fast as possible, a continuous stream with baskets of coal on their heads, up one side and down another a black? mass. We went on shore as quickly as possible to get out of the coal dust. We made up a party, got into a small boat, and was rowed ashore, which was only a stone's throw. We passed some beautiful residences which belonged to the European inhabitants, with flat roofs and balconies running all around the house, 4 and 5 stories high, each story with a balcony. The people seem to wash on the roofs, for we saw clothes out to dry from a good many houses. We immediately engaged a guide, for it's not safe to travel alone in such a dreadful place. I am told they will decoy and drug you, then rob you if they get the chance. Our guide took us up one street which was very dirty, then he engaged 2 carriages for us and we drove 1st to the Mahometan Mosque. Our feet were encased in large rush slippers as we stepped over the doorway. No one is allowed to enter shod. There were but few worshippers, but they seemed most devout
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and kept bowing and prostrating themselves to the ground. In one corner I noticed 3 clustered together all rehearsing in something. One had a red book in his hands. I enquired of the guide what were they doing. He said, "Learning the Koran, would I like to see one. I answered "Yes" He fetched it but of course I could not read it as it is written in Arabic. The tomb of Mahomet was drawn at the end of the book. 3 galleries are reserved for the women. The mosque itself was very plain, rush matting on the floor, no seats, a long box for the preacher, who is not allowed to eat pork, drink wine or beer, and not to "say sweare"? From there we drove to the cemeteries, through one part of the town passed Government House, Barracks and other official residences and native? schools. All the houses are shut up by lattice work to protect from the sun. Across some part of the sandy desert saw some camels loaded for a caravan going towards the desert across the sands. Drays filled with huge water bottles passed us going to water flowers in the cemetery
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The cemeteries are divided into sections, one English which had some beautiful memorials, carved marble tombstones. Next came the Jews, then Greeks, then Arabs. The corpse is not put into a coffin, but laid into the sands. Oh what a waste of sands as far as the eyes could reach. On our left, the blue waters of the Mediterranean; our right the vast desert - nothing but sand. Not a tree or blade of grass to be seen. The sky overhead a cloudless blue. We drove back through the town, driving through each quarter of the city, set apart for each tribe. The Egyptian streets and shops looked much cleaner than the others. Arabians most filthy, Greeks better. Few shops with glass windows. Most of the merchants bring their wares into the street and oh how they pester you to buy, feathers, trinkets, beads and fruit, running after you through the streets. Next we drove to the other end of the town to see the fresh water canal which is over 2000 years old, and brought from the Nile. It runs for some distance by the side of the Suez Canal
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with a very wide salt lake on the other side of it. We drove back through the broiling sun, our driver a Soudanese letting himself 2 horses go almost to sleep. An Egyptian drove the other carriage and neither could speak one word of English. On our way back we passed a large square. A Mahomatan fare was to be held the next day, and some small swing boats filled with dirty children were already erected. Next we went to the Roman Catholic Cathedral, a beautiful church with fine paintings and pure white marble. Its altars were very beautiful and elaborate. A priest was teaching a class of young women, but we could not understand the lingo. After Naples, its church looked very insignificant. We went to the Greek church and schools. 2 lady teachers were teaching about 50 clean intelligent looking children. Here we alighted and paid our drivers, who wanted more than the fares for themselves, but our guide settled with them. We saw some windows full of Maltese lace but one was afraid to buy anything
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as they ask the English 4? times its value. We passed some Egyptian bakers shops, such queer funny round cakes. We bought a 1d? one for the fun, but it was heavy as lead. It was all puffed up like puff pastry when we bought it but soon went down. The tailors sat at their doors and shops without windows to do their work. One large Hotel had 300 rooms and it looked much better than the others. The married women all had their faces covered from just below the eyes with black? lace veils, reaching to their knees, and black dresses, very untidy dirty and hot they all looked. The Arabs wore a long loose blue and white gown like a dressing gown with short bloomers underneath. Some looked nice and clean, others more disreputable. We were not sorry to get into the boat to go back to our vessel. The children were hot, tired and hungry, and we felt no better. The coaling was finished and we soon picked up the anchor and left the dirty picturesque
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Oriental town behind, but now we enter into the Suez Canal, a narrow stream with banks on either side. We had not gone far when the signal came for us to tie up, to let 2 steamers pass. It is the rule, those nearest the entrance tie up to let the other pass by. 4 o'clock we left Port Said and before 11pm, 8 vessels had passed. It was a beautiful sight when the strong electric revolving light was turned on. It lit up the stations along the canal, and cast its rays a long distance off. It was a lovely night, nice and cool after the hot day. We stayed on deck later than usual. The brass band played for an hour on our deck and some of the passengers finished up the day by dancing to its lively strains.
Friday 14th [April 1899]
Just 2 weeks since we left London. It has seemed a long fortnight. We passed Ismailia an island alongside the levy and in the lake about 2am this morning
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sorry it was in the nighttime. We hope to be through the canal in Suez by 12 noon? There are such pretty little houses at the stations with flower gardens and palms and other foliage. It's a mystery to me how they do it in this desert waste, sand sand everywhere. Some Arabs ran alongside the vessel for some distance to gain some coppers. Some of the passengers threw oranges to them and they waded into the water for them. They were all but nude in costume. Passed old? Suez about 11 am, a small pretty place. Some nice houses and gardens could be seen from the vessel. Through the Suez into the Red Sea, huge red cliffs, rocks all around the harbour, a very fine one indeed. The township of Suez lay some distance from the entrance. The vessel only waited for mails, but in the meantime Arabs filled the decks with oranges and eggs 40 1/8 [hard to make out price] too good to be true -
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Off again through the Red Sea. Our next port is Columbo [Sri Lanka] eleven days steaming. We are travelling faster now. Through the canal our speed was only 5 miles an hour. Some days we do 350 miles.
Saturday 15th [April 1899]
I forgot to mention that travellers to Jerusalem and the Holy Land disembark at Port Said. Frequent steamers run to Jaffa (the ancient Joppa) and Beyrout. Joppa takes us back to the apostle Peter who went to the house top to pray and there saw his vision. A railway has been opened, from Jaffa to Jerusalem is about 3 hours. From Port Said it is also easy to visit Greece which is full of historic Persian? Associations.
The Temple of Theseus beautiful and golden in its armours of age? the foundations of the temples of Athens, the Acropolis. We can imagine St Paul standing upon Mars Hill looking down upon the beautiful city with its numerous temples to heathen gods, and denouncing them. Passed Ismailia during the night, did not stop. The Gulf of Suez is from 10 to 25 miles in width, on either hand are mountains ranging from 3 to 6 thousand ft high
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to the eastward is the peninsula of Sinai. The pyramids of Geezah are about 7 miles from Cairo at the western side of the Nile. From Suez we pass through a gulf in which we see land on both sides. The precipitous Jebal Attatra on our right. We pass on to the Zenobia lightship on the Newport Rock. We are abreast of "Abu? Darraj" where tradition says the Israelites crossed the Red Sea. The water was shallow. We also have a fine view of the peaks of Sinai and it is said a glimpse can be obtained of the mountain Jubal Moosa where the law was given to Moses. After passing the straits, we are well into the Red Sea. Next we pass 2 rocky islets, The Brothers. A light house is on one of them. When we have travelled 300 miles from the Gulf of Suez and 100 miles from the Brothers, we are abreast of the first cataract of the Nile [Aswan 24N] and are almost into the tropics. Here, standing alone in the middle of the sea, Daedalus light house. It rises from the centre of a reef, which is never visible above water except as some small black? boulders which gives it the name "The Father of Pots?" by the Arabians. On the Arabian coast is Zemba. On the west opposite
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is the ancient Berenice, a great Egyptian port in the days of the Ptolomies. In the Straits of Babull Mandib (The Gate of Tears 1.5 miles from Arabian and 11 miles from the African coast is the island of Perim. Next we pass Aden during the night time. Aden is described as a large crater formed of lofty hills. The highest peak is recorded at 1775 feet. Here are the reservoirs. It is stated there are 50 tanks in Aden which, if cleared out, would hold 30,000,000 imperial gallons. The date of the original is AD 600. The steamers course now lies for the western end of Cape Guardafui, a high rocky cape 900 ft high. Rounding the cape, we are now into the Indian Ocean. Here is a great difference in the air. The sultry hot winds of the Red Sea are changed to a pleasant breeze.
Sunday 16th [April 1899]
Our first quiet Sunday on board. Service in the drawing room at 11am. The brass band was in attendance and played the hymn tunes. Captain read the lessons which were short. The afternoon spent quietly on deck reading to the children part of the time
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fearfully hot. After 8 o'clock a prayer meeting was held in the Second Class saloon. All the 3rd class were invited. It was a nice service conducted by a minister on board.
Monday 17th [April 1899
Another hot day and the waters cause the boat to roll very much.
Tuesday 18th
A lovely day, was up before 5am to have my bath and see the sun rise. More beautiful is the sun rising than the sun setting in my estimation.
Just to watch the ball of moulten fire rise from the water flooding all the sky with crimson and gold reflected in the blue glassy waters, pure white fleecy clouds dotted in the azure blue sky, it is beautiful beyond description. It rases? our thoughts to our Father, and we exclaim spontaneously, "Lord, how wonderful are all thy works."
Wednesday 19th
Nothing of any importance yesterday. Too rolling to write anything. Today, Wednesday, a perfect day. Nice and pleasant on deck. The sea is a perfect picture, only just disturbed by the ships motion as far as the eye can reach, a beautiful azure blue, sometimes it is green
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as grass, but more often blue. We saw the last of the African coast this morning. Nothing of any importance to relate.
Thursday 20th [April 1899]
Still in the Arabian Sea. Nothing but water to be seen on every hand. Although the water looks calm there must be some under currents which cause the vessel to roll very much. We reel to and fro. We stagger like a drunken man. The heat is dreadful. We are just as if we were in a Turkish Bath all the time. I have a cold and cough and Harold and Norman also.
Friday 21st
All the passengers are seasick today yet the water looks calm. It changes in colour several times during the day, sometimes a beautiful azure blue then grass green and moss green and sky blue. A concert on the 3rd class deck tonight. Both 1st and 2nd class were invited. A good number of 1st and 2nd attended in evening dress.
Saturday 22nd [April 1899]
We have entered upon our last 3 weeks. Half the journey to Sydney done. It gets hotter than ever. The nights are dreadful
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Sunday 23rd [April 1899]
A beautiful calm Sunday but I think hotter than ever. Scarcely a breath of air stirring even on the upper deck. The Captain read a few short lessons in the drawing room. And in the evening a short service was held on 2nd class deck. The heat makes me feel downright ill and indolent.
Monday 24th
We arrived at Columbo about 1 pm after rather a rough morning. We had some tropical showers accompanied by thunder and forked lightning during the morning. This did not look very promising for our going ashore, but the sun shone and the rain cleared all away before the anchor was dropped. Columbo looked very pretty from the water. We went inside a large breakwater then a busy scene presented itself. All at once we were as usual crowded with natives, a very different stamp to those of P. Said. They mostly looked cool and clean in a white dress just wrapped around the loins with a pink and white turban twisted around the head.
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little naked black children were asking for pennies to be thrown into the water, and they dive off a raft to fetch them up. We soon had a party made up to go on shore, as to stay on board the vessel was impossible. We found a nice guide who offered to take us on shore in his boat, procure a carriage and drive us round to see everywhere for 2/s each, so a party of xxx was made and dressed in our lightest and coolest things we we were not sorry to have a little change on terra firma once more. We were taken on shore in small boats rowed by Ceylon natives for some little distance down the harbour, passed some British men of war just come into port for 4 days from China, and other large steamers from various parts of the world. We landed at the quay, a large covered in building, a great number of people were about, then passed into the main street. I scarcely know how to describe it to you. We could fancy ourselves looking at some of the drawings
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in books of Indian cities. The streets were broad and clean. Electric tramways were running all about. Very fine, beautiful buildings on either side, and down the street on either side, most beautiful flowering trees, some with bright scarlet blossoms, and some yellow and white The soil and dust a venetian red which contrasted so well with the beautiful greens of all shades from dark olive to pea green. We passed a large building in erection with some hundreds of native workmen, with just a small strip of calico around the waist. Strong fine upright looking men, with long hair twisted in a knot on the top of the head and some wore long combs in the hair. Hindoo women carrying naked little black babies on their shoulders, black as ebony some of them, and so fat with pretty features with shining black eyes and beautiful white teeth. They got a goodly number of pence put into their little hands. Here we got into 2? carriages which was to take us a drive to the
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noted cinnamon and sweet spice gardens. The air seemed laden with the sweet smelling perfumes. Bishop Heber's beautiful hymn came into my mind:-
What though the spicy breezes
Blow soft on Ceylon's isle
And every prospect pleases
And only man is vile
Pleasing and beautiful beyond description was the landscape on every side. Lovely flowers, palms, banana trees, pomegranite, plaintain and banyan and coconut? trees for about 1.5 miles passing the native bazaars and houses. A Dutch church built in 1476 when the island was a Dutch settlement. We passed large carts with a covering of cocoa-nut matting overhead to be a protection from the sun. These were drawn by 2 Ceylon bullocks, not very large but appeared very strong with an Indian driver. They held no reins in their hands but the oxen appeared to understand them perfectly as there was no confusion. We passed Europeans being carried by native servants in a kind of sedan chair
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They ran along with them as quickly as the horses carried us. Both ladies and gentlemen all in white dresses and suits were carried in this fashion. We alighted at the Museum, walked through some lovely gardens to a very fine building, white stone and marble. It was delightfully cool inside. A guide took us round to explain the curios - a large stone statue of King Karatransabrich?? 1000 years old, mandpass?? chiefs very old. Statues of different tribes and natives in their fancy oriental dress. All the masks, figures and dresses used in the devil dance from old Hindoo customs. A large statue of Budda, their god in stone carved from a solid block. Numberless snakes in bottles of spirit, cases upon cases of beautiful butterflys and moths, some very large; large fish, sharks and etc caught in the Red Sea. Birds and reptiles and beautiful shells, old native dresses, coins and ornaments, some most precious, set in rubies and pearls. 2 old stone anchors
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found in Columbo Harbour. We then drove through the Victoria Park. Bordering this all along the roads are most picturesque houses in their own grounds belonging to some of the European residents, a Wesleyan Chapel and schools, St Andrews Church Home for Sailors, larger schools and Colledge, Post Office, barracks, an old Dutch cemetery age 690 years, and many other native sights We drove to an hotel we saw along the beach and we had the nicest and best cups of tea I have ever tasted, pure Ceylon tea, waited upon by native servants. Men do all the work, large pinjabi? were in the middle of each room, pulled to and fro by little boys. It made the room very cool and airy. No windows any where xxx is open. Some of the shops had beautiful silver filligree work and silk embroidered dresses and blouses, fans in ivory, and scents. The women seem to take great care of their hair which looked very glossy dressed with silver ornaments.
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They wore a small short skirt, a white low bodice trimmed with lace, silver necklets, armlets, leglets and bracelets, nose rings and 6 or 7 rings in the ears, in fact covered with jewellery, even the little naked children wore silver bands around the waist and legs. We walked back to the landing stage, hired a boat back to our ship and arrived on board at 7 o'clock. They had not quite finished coaling, 15 new passengers came on board and natives, and it was a dirty babel until 9 o'clock when they were all ordered off on shore. The anchors were raised and we once more steamed off to sea. Our next call will be Albany, about 11 days sail. All were tired but everyone was pleased with the day's outing. Columbo was the prettiest of all the places we had called on our trip out.
Tuesday 25th
Nothing of any importance to write about today, still very hot indeed.
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Wednesday 26th
Fearfully hot, it takes away all our strength and energy, and also our appetite, wee feel good for nothing. Another concert is to take place tomorrow evening, so some of the passengers are practising. A fancy dress ball takes place tonight but only in the 1st saloon. We are now in the Indian Ocean and the currents are rather strong which causes the vessel to roll very much. The officers tell us we shall catch a little of the Monsoons
Thursday 27th [April 1899]
Another day is nearly over. I think there will be nothing left of us soon if this heat continues. We crossed the line last night, so in a few days it will be cooler. The Dr has ordered us all Beef Tea in the morning. A great number are sick and have the prickly heat. One family is in the Hospital with Chickenpox. Myself and the boys keep fairly well. We take a dose of medicine every day, so that keeps the blood? cool. A heavy swell is on the water. We have some most beautiful sunsets and sunrisings.
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Friday 28th
The concert passed off very well last night. A goodly number of 1st class passengers attended. Mrs. Barker, a lady passenger who is going to Albany to meet her husband, sang The Holy City, and The Holy Shrine. She has a splendid voice and is a singer by profession. I have heard The Holy City many times, but never heard it sung so well. Her voice has such a full compass she could reach the high notes quite easily. Another young lady gave two recitations very well and several good songs
Saturday 29th
still fearfully hot in our cabins, but a little cooler on deck. Nothing of any a/c to write. There seems such a hubbub and noise on board all the time, but what else could we expect with 500 passengers. Oh how thankful I shall be to get to mine own quiet home again.
Sunday morning
A quite beautiful day, it issuch a relief to have it cooler again. There is a nice breeze on deck. We attended Divine Service this morning, it is a very short service, but nice.
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Nearly all the passengers have a siesta in the afternoons. The water looks beautiful, although we are getting rather weary of looking at it. Such a restless ocean, always on the ebb and flow. Sometimes, after the sunsets it looks very grey and feels rather depressing. I cannot read much. I like to sit and dream.
Monday May 1st
We have entered into our last month. This is our longest run from Columbo to Albany, over 3000 miles. Another farewell concert too? nights
Tuesday May 2nd [1899]
This concert was another success. Mrs. B again sang 2 songs, The Bridge and Betrothed. She was recalled both times and sang Masquerade Ball and Little Butterfly. No other lady would sing after Mrs. Barker, a banjo and pianoforte solo by 2 gentlemen was very good indeed, several comic songs by passengers and some good songs by some of the officers and etc. The band also played some good music this afternoon on deck
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Wednesday May 3rd - very rough on deck today. We are drawing close to Cape Leuwin and are having the trade winds too rough to write.
Thursday 4th - another stormy morning, have had a few showers, we have had but little rain all the voyage. The passengers are beginning to feel better and to getting over their sea sickness. some of them have not had one bit of work to pass away the time. I think I have done as much as anyone.
Friday 5th - We lose a good number of passengers at Albany. We shall not be sorry to see land again. When we once touch the Australian coast, each day we shall be nearer home.
Saturday 6th
Only one more week and the best? part of our journey will be over. How glad I shall be, I cannot tell. We reached Albany, the 1st Australian port at 3.30 this morning. There was not much sleep after that hour, for about 50
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passengers go off here, some to Perth, some to Fremantle and some even to the Klondyke gold fields and other parts of Western Australia. Albany Harbour is very pretty, very much like a New Zealand scene. There looked like 6 bays all around us and the mountain ranges in the background. Some of the headlands looked very wild and rocky. Others more cultivated with trees and private residences dotted all up its sides. The township of Albany was 1.5 miles from the vessel. Some few passengers went on shore, but only had an hour there. It did not seem worth the expense for so short a time. The population of Albany is about 25 000 inhabitants ; so I was told but it is not a very good business place. Some years back it was very good but now Fremantle has taken much of its trade. Government seems to be at loggerheads with South Australia and I am told a few in power are dead against the interests of Albany. A dead-alive place, a resident said, who was a passenger returning home. There seemed to be some
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peculiar formations of rock on one headland, looked rather strange from the vessel, it seemed to be the pilot station. White cliffs shone in the morning sun, with the dark green of the native bush and scrub formed a very pretty background. Some of the houses looked very isolated, there not being more than 6 houses (built after the colonial style on a flat) to be seen on the mountain ranges. A quaritine island, with one residence stood all alone some little distance from shore which was used for any dangerous infections. Others on the opposite side were used for ordinary quaritine. It is a lovely morning. The sun is shining brightly. The sea is as calm as a mill pond. There are several vessels and tenders steaming to and fro from the shore. We passed a German Loyd? steamer bound for Fremantle. This next week will be one of excitement and bustle and packing up. A goodly number leave us the next port Adalade. As we steam from Albany we pass on either side for some distance strange rocky ranges, grand and beautiful.
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In their majestic heights not one habitation is to be seen, nothing but rock and sand. We pass several islands of rock as we steam into the ocean again. How wonderful and grand is nature. Man appears so small and insignificant by the side of God's handiwork, so grand and noble, which have stood the storms from the ocean for countless ages. Lord, how wonderful are all Thy mighty works. How great and wonderful art Thyself. Our finite minds cannot grasp Thy infinity. We gaze amazed at Thy works of nature and feel so thankful that through the merits of Thy dear Son, we can call Thee "Our Father" who careth for us and knowest our uprising and downsittings
Sunday 7th [May 1899]
A beautiful sunny Sunday morning but we are in the dreaded Bight and are rolling from one side to the other most unmercifully. Our sea legs are not very steady for we reel and stagger like a drunken man. Nothing but water to be seen. We attended Divine Service this morning but could scarcely keep our feet. It was a very short service indeed, rather
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more attended than generally
Monday 8th
We are again nearing land. Hope to reach Adalaide today. We left Adalaide this afternoon. We anchored some few miles from the wharf so did not go on shore. Tender came and fetched off the cargo and passengers and brought on the mails. Adalaide from the vessel looked very pretty. The sun was shining brightly and everyone looked so busy and important. It looks like a very large town built all alongside the beach and is very flat indeed. Just behind could be seen a range of hills forming a dark background. There did not appear much cultivation. It looked very bare and desolate except for a small belt of pine trees here and there. Some of the passengers went on shore and said it was a pretty place, but sand everywhere. There is a large flock of albatrosses and seagulls flying around the boat all the time now, and we lost a great number of our passengers here we set sail at 3pm again
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Thursday 9th
We are still rolling very much, I cannot write. Land can be seen all the time, but from this distance it does not look a very beautiful part, very flat indeed. Have just passed Cape Nelson
Wednesday 10th
We are all busy packing up our luggage again now. Hope to reach Melbourne shortly. I shall go ashore if possible. We reached Melbourne about 8am this morning and before anyone could go ashore, in fact before we went alongside the wharf. The Dr and Customs officer came on board. Every one on board except the Captain have to pass before them for inspection. It did not take long. Then the boat went up to the wharf where many people were waiting for their friends. A great number of the passengers left the boat here. There was many goodbye's to say and wish each other God's blessing in there new unknown future, we got to know each other very intimately being thrown so much together for 6 weeks and sometimes making lifelong friends, but we will soon all
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be scattered all over the world. Some are going right into the interior of Australasia, some to NZ and Tasmania. After breakfast we quickly dressed to go ashore. A train conveys passengers from the wharf to the city, which is about 2 miles from the wharf. Oh what small poky carriages after the English locomotives. We arrived at a large station, quite in the midst of the city and oh dear, it seem nice to see an English town once more. After all the ... ... to the ship just about 3 pm. A few passengers came on to go to Sydney. The town looked very pretty when it was lit up in the evening with the electric lights. It stretches for a long distance along the beach and the country is very flat all around. The evening was very cold and there are only 30 passengers left in our class left for Sydney - I had a letter from Min and I cannot say how pleased I was to get some news of the dear ones
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again.
Thursday 11th
Nothing of any importance to write. I want to get an English letter to post tomorrow. Hoping to reach Sydney tomorrow evening if all's well. We are going along splendidly this morning, scarcely any motion. I must finish some more packing this afternoon.
Friday 12th
We are just passing the Heads. The scenery is beyond description. One bay follows another all the way up on either side the harbour. The land which looks like small islands, almost surrounded by water, is covered with houses and nice gardens and plantations. The gardens in some run right down to the beach, on others, high precipitous rocks with the waves dashing against their sides. We passed Botany Bay some of the passengers were living then? A cemetery with many white monuments struck the eye with its beautiful green as a relief. This looked so quiet and peaceful
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with its sloping sides to the water's edge, a lovely place for the last resting place of mankind. As we steamed up the harbour, the promontories were more numerous and more thickly populated. Ferry boats were running in all directions to each of the numerous suburbs. It was a most beautiful sight and is the prettiest and finest of all the many harbours I have seen. Naples is nowhere beside it in beauty because it is all natural it looked as if nature wished to excel herself when it was created, then it has another advantage. It is all deep water. The largest vessels can wharf there and there are no real piers, just a small jetty and each company from all parts of the world have each one of their own. we anchored about ? am Friday, a day earlier than advertised. We had to stay out from the pier as one of the company boats was still in dock and did not leave until the following Monday. A tender came ...
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